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Real Food 101: Do We Still Know How to Cook?
I have a friend who lives in Italy, and goes to a local market in his town. When he first got there, he told me he was getting stressed out when he first arrived, because he was trying to go and find specific vegetables and cuts of meat to make these wonderful Italian dishes out of a cookbook, but he could never track down the exact ingredient he needed, even though he was in Italy itself.
Following the Grandmothers
Then, he said, he realized all he had to do was start following the grandmothers around the market as they did their shopping — he not only figured out who was selling the best produce, but he saw that the majority of Italy’s grandmas would buy certain vegetables that were in season, because those ones usually tasted the best and were the cheapest.
And their buying method generally seemed to be “get a mix of stuff, go home, and do something with it” — not completely improvised, obviously, but open-ended enough to not need a complex recipe in your pocket before hitting the market. He told us he tried to emulate that in his cooking, but found he was missing something — a fundamental ability in the kitchen, knowing what things go with what other things, how long stuff should take when you’ve gone off-recipe, and so on.
I’ve noticed a lot of friends of mine are able to whip up great meals out of a cookbook when needed, and they can follow directions pretty well, but when it comes to actually making things for themselves on a regular basis, they’re just as lost as everyone else. Why is this?
The common response is that in the last 50 years, the idea of “passing down” kitchen skill got lost, as huge changes hit our families and the way we live. That’s the most common explanation, and it makes sense — but what else is behind this change? We did some research, and a lot of the big voices in the ‘Real Food’ movement point to some other interesting factors in why a lot of us feel we can’t cook anymore:
The Rise of Food TV
There’s no doubt 24 hour food networks have given us fascinating programs on the most insane, delicous, exotic, or interesting food around, and countless new things to try. But the fact is — 1 hour of watching Top Chef is one hour you didn’t spend trying a new meal, having a special dinner, or making a wonderful lunch for work tomorrow. The same can be said about any TV show, obviously, but when watching the Food Network is paired with not eating well, it’s a strange relationship.
These shows also tend to make cooking into a spectator sport, because that’s what sells on TV. There’s nothing wrong with that, of course, until you hit the point where you don’t really want to cook anything, becuase you saw how the top chefs do it on TV, and your plain old kitchen doesn’t seem so great anymore. This, of course, is BS!
The kitchen of Mark Bittman, who writes the amazing ‘Minimalist‘ column for the New York Times, is miniscule. No gas stove, very little counter space, and yet he wrote what is considered the best single-volume cookbook of the past 50 years. If he can create a bible of the kitchen, in a tiny space, without any chef’s training or ultra-fancy equipment, you can surely find a solution, too.
Unlimited Choice
The sheer size of the average supermarket, and the availability of an insane amount of fruits, vegetables, spices, fish, meat really can work against us. It’s an amazing resource we have, sure, but not only can we be overcome by buyer’s anxiety — and end up getting too much stuff in order to make radically specific dishes — but we tend to miss seasonal fundamentals. Every supermarket has a fixed amount of space to fill, no matter what the season. Unlike a farmer’s market, there always needs to be “produce” out and displayed at all times, no matter the time of year.
It also leads to a mentality that I’ve noticed — where people become fixated on the particular ingredients in a recipe, because they’re usually all available (with a bit of work). Instead of understanding what might be substituted — saving a car trip across town — each recipe becomes a kind of elaborate to-do list that must be 100% checked-off. This seems to ensure that people don’t learn how to repeat the recipe from memory, because they’ll never remember all the precise measurements called for.
The Push Towards Having a ‘Famous’ Dish of Your Own
There’s often a specific focus on one special dish — we all know the dads & uncles who slave over the BBQ, creating the perfect steak, tenderloin, or Christmas turkey, but otherwise don’t do a thing in the kitchen. Thankfully this isn’t everyone, but that kind of specialization is a pretty limited skillset when you need to creatively combine ingredients, or make a lot from a little. A “famous chili” is great, but a series of quality dinners that don’t take more than 30 minutes to prepare, spread out over a month, is pretty damn great too.
How Do We Get Better at the Basics?
If there’s one thing we’ve learned, it’s that there is no simple solution to gaining better kitchen basics. It takes work, practice, and an open mind that needs to put up with mistakes and think creatively about what’s in the fridge and the pantry — and what’s in season, on sale, or good this time of year.
What about you, our readers? What area of your approcah towards cooking do you want to improve? Do you want to broaden your palate, your cooking methods, your general facility around the kitchen? Tell us!
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